London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Highlight-The Rochas
The Rochas: John Rocha以及他女兒Simone Rocha, 是我近期很欣賞的兩位英國設計師.
在前衛或是極簡設計風格當道的倫敦設計圈,不知道是因為出自同一個家庭美學,或是血緣裡的基因遺傳,這對風格不盡相同的父女,我卻總是會不自覺地把他們歸類為浪漫派: 很女性化,卻又不至於搔首弄姿的一種性感.
John Rocha A/W 2013
從爸爸開始說起. 某種程度上, John Rocha之前總讓我覺得有些可惜. 畢竟後浪推前浪,年輕一輩的設計師 (包含他女兒Simone Rocha) 所帶來的衝擊,搶掉不少所謂前輩的風采, John Rocha 便是其中一例. 即使前幾季表現仍普遍獲好評,但少了女兒作品的話題性. 或者你可以說,他大度的把光彩留給女兒.
一種被低估的能量,在這一季蓄勢待發.也許你會很意外,他眼裡的女性,總是如此柔美.他若是位詩人,筆下所歌頌的女性,便是豐沛,圓潤,並帶有飽滿質感的溫柔.
對他而言,花朵似乎是用來襯托女性形象最好的媒介.洋裝上大量的花朵,像是信手捻來卻遍地展開. 將crochet運用在設計上也很有趣,相較於倫敦設計師對開發新材質的熱衷,這是相對老派卻迷人的想法---在女性身上織出蜘蛛網或是花盤,我把它看成,對手工質感年代的懷念.
跳脫黑色的自我限制,看他延伸調色盤是另一件有趣的事. A字鐘形短外套與大衣,厚重的材質與剪裁,卻因為帶有春天氣息的色彩而活潑許多.
Simone Rocha A/W 2013
短短的兩三年,Simone Rocha已經成為London Fashion Week的熱門搶手秀之一.
她那略帶中性卻又充滿女性特質的設計,有時會讓我看到日本設計師的影子,其實在倫敦設計師裡已自成一格.
"Respect Your Elders", 這系列同樣是對old-fashion的致意,卻與John Rocha所呈現的方式截然不同.同樣帶有懷舊意味,線條卻一如以往簡潔俐落.然而在這樣的主題下, "半透明" 與 "看穿" 的遊戲,解構與重建構的概念,明顯比前幾季保守許多.
我喜歡的是,利用材質與剪裁所呈現出的 "性別" 衝突感.
粉紅,鵝黃或奶油色,毛海,花朵與豹紋,看似充滿女性特質的顏色與布料,卻用相對直線陽剛的線條呈現;偶爾在裙襬側邊增加打褶,卻又彷彿不是那麼心甘情願地加上去---這就像是一個女孩轉變成女人的過程,仍然稚氣未脫,仍然帶有孩子氣,一種要長大不長大的尷尬感.
但我卻很喜歡這種尷尬感所帶來的衝突.有點侷促不安,還有點少女情懷的浪漫.
最後,一樣要感謝我的攝影師好友Lucas Seidenfaden幫我拍下部分John Rocha的秀照;Simone Rocha照片全由Simone Rocha香港公關提供,因為那天我蠢到忘記帶相機.
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
對他而言,花朵似乎是用來襯托女性形象最好的媒介.洋裝上大量的花朵,像是信手捻來卻遍地展開. 將crochet運用在設計上也很有趣,相較於倫敦設計師對開發新材質的熱衷,這是相對老派卻迷人的想法---在女性身上織出蜘蛛網或是花盤,我把它看成,對手工質感年代的懷念.
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiFaoaupXfSc60ePBfgEU30pmOe4cW0dDAvjxprTfOuWIDpwruYnKSB38-4eBncaE8JMNB1dvzrRVv7u5BwPHszZbw2rIKBke9PDofyrj6N7N8YVOh2vCc7vrLHCOGwLcr8yb7EUE8tIWb/s640/IMG_3370.jpg)
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuSrW96zswlsu2ONKHutUr7oubHJNMDr5rOtqHBtSE0zCyp_gw0jxIhpVLypSaa6TzteU61zE41cQIj8a4pYbcb8EYmrKX01ljFMjDZaaHd8MYidMie_lFR9GlprECrV5keFjreJgLDdv/s640/IMG_3639.jpg)
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRxWsVfGSTik20SUE2-nUsYHsulgrCXieHJEtOoicWC4jG8H64vU1SlI7_eowc2xiELTTDo3_37foUUbqOKcmFiVXfrDyrUdhaBxJqCP3e2pcIMWS89vXAq1gXytj2zWjRkwz_72DoKk1e/s640/IMG_3632.jpg)
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV3DcfMXvmGUxlj9gzI0KPP29LY0kGUoElkoAdDr-5KJmEOCJ-PG3Yo8hYzlySPCg2iJ6vP09bFYtxRisfpfayccazs_kPbFRaLbovj7tQn_b7IaWUWI1BMqVP4wbp5mZllB5WJQMJ68Hk/s640/IMG_3634.jpg)
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjozs79l5nSJci8mI1bZv6_g4kQ4aVMLsoR84z27iSUH9CDv3xlZn7VlxQcPOcZwsQ9VhB4ISpAJ2oFhHxJitIwu7-MCrk9X1R48Q1025wDyXWKMlprStlL4UzOoEd8-ytDfyPbpZBe0LCG/s640/IMG_3587.jpg)
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
蓬鬆的層次與分量,我想這是他之所以能輕易帶出女性柔美形象的關鍵.
John Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Alice Chan
最後一點的浪漫感,我歸功於那頭髮造型所營造出的神祕.半遮臉龐的黑紗,與飽和繽紛的色彩形成強烈對比.多了一份憂鬱,卻也多了一份詩意.
Simone Rocha A/W 2013
短短的兩三年,Simone Rocha已經成為London Fashion Week的熱門搶手秀之一.
她那略帶中性卻又充滿女性特質的設計,有時會讓我看到日本設計師的影子,其實在倫敦設計師裡已自成一格.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR4H-z6U_bGkvZc7wA39lq1EYwWt_pAHfH8putpdG8O9Fjfg7PCn17e0LZO2g-I56X_dPIa1xfxxkD3mCTONVoTvA7bDkZZLfTGh_qBCSfsn_pQ-LVxRiruZKj4Ldyh8UC695PRVdAhjJs/s640/Look-3.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1PBSJFza9jQdGk-LUqq79297lBZJA4BYH8e7dPTveMHQov_e6siigpkRbI9B1EUNGfK85sKAj4oIF27KfjStsQNcluaxWVBjP90gyUP57kcac-Cl0HbqyqehYuhBj0EOjfDGlIQmw_7EV/s640/Look-7-.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBg21_KI9mn1KNmneFKKkJZRoR3K8WvAdkUzbO6wz2Ts-Tu7BxxN7wH0GNx5xTOpPr7wsKy85Aqk2hMldWS5U8o5ExoGM8wA9Lu8i6lHImkbUG4W8Ww3gx6wRS3qUaxb225EuGnaJTR3Ry/s640/Look-9.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
我喜歡的是,利用材質與剪裁所呈現出的 "性別" 衝突感.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRtrBNlBmkr-aUtxaHH4EsOnncEYyLmiUhllDWk3bCT6-9TOxxnBZ6r5rUgrOfLwo33x1OCVigKn-iYJ0cwGP46SKwtHGHT6QvBMneDQSzK-YK3xr4_go3GTOrJ4x4V4oTByyU78HxL9wp/s640/Look-15.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXjUN2ud50RM8bnrL6X_hodLBVALos-zZn9UkSAbfztZBaNI8xM0QGzIxnG80ms1KmdkoN_bpO6MRKboeKOdzio2C_4BQdCjo4X5fTBJOuW9kLThyqY21nt_ujV4UUI13UMZwLidL21BfY/s640/Look-14.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjSrZ-LGrIL-bjw2viCdZAk1CJLiiHlYxU1p7Z4oii1F0iPjUDT59SWBkAtOuxXVicDUCGlMDg7DJF0_S_GTZXmAvSm3wrqg64-Gc261LPC1htFZ3FRVDmJtvu5CJyQdqx_xydZcoXOW3/s640/Look-35.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXlgtQZdLSrggsG5lM6lr-EKSFZibP41LSuT3HPvoH_FvCWba9wAoUMJVfyJoVqjjg5r2d09_cb0oKzrYTbK6Yqmq_Y8pImFdYeXk2P6OReGDLezDvWVBYVSaU_A3Giv-2oEMI7ID0r7KW/s640/Look-23.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
粉紅,鵝黃或奶油色,毛海,花朵與豹紋,看似充滿女性特質的顏色與布料,卻用相對直線陽剛的線條呈現;偶爾在裙襬側邊增加打褶,卻又彷彿不是那麼心甘情願地加上去---這就像是一個女孩轉變成女人的過程,仍然稚氣未脫,仍然帶有孩子氣,一種要長大不長大的尷尬感.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMtovXeikq08IZ3vzGd52ldO-V4GptLZkilY3lWsnJD2KhwsoVEfl_bOFLsBsjjXw3cHMb_QdI76HBm4GePve01xaOFcN5hCK53xsU1N_UEsdt9joMfwNZZWRVK-heVim4NHqQj0nYtFBN/s640/Look-19.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw1Ssn7Ef1HV6YEofoAemJbNXBuH2HX_nC23F2B1_YYifgNNbdxo23X4N-3wqSYrsVTX-vYxU_iUXsCvXwd0VCUWTRacz-ki-GQqwTdTXYHLMslRcnpLZruNVmo0ZpaRzkJtvzfeH1qU5z/s640/Look-28.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkfVLDf66XuDfHE8LWRcRvwpCbkLIFA8JzGAiw596sdT_dJPT-bekBIeTJN2GoEEFk684Wchik0Yu5RJcpOnq9NppYEHpRlHIy_LQdkOldQ3hcAPdj4TGK2XYwHwdKqm6NjSxg3erb4hB_/s640/Look-211.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIVrg2sgBD4Udfwu129bzqncORCqiwOnef3tXhdk-g3vtmaWSd68M2HmDjheXNoLAllXQ5lOTYzSZ3bCWVn3E_uRij9oG8cj-57c9JQZCLXDccXPhUU8AeO9GpyTUEIzNf9T2sr7IFO6P4/s640/Look-32.jpg)
Simone Rocha A/W 2013, photo credit by Simone Rocha
但我卻很喜歡這種尷尬感所帶來的衝突.有點侷促不安,還有點少女情懷的浪漫.
最後,一樣要感謝我的攝影師好友Lucas Seidenfaden幫我拍下部分John Rocha的秀照;Simone Rocha照片全由Simone Rocha香港公關提供,因為那天我蠢到忘記帶相機.
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