London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Highlight-Vivienne Westwood Red Label & MAN Collecion
在幾經深思熟慮後,砍掉原本要發佈的米蘭男裝周review,而決定將同一品牌的男裝與女裝一起發佈。所以這篇除了二月份的倫敦女裝close up報導外,也包含了在一月份米蘭男裝周的Vivienne Westwood MAN系列。
Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013
當Vivienne Westwood公關在email提到2013秋冬女裝將在King’s Road舉辦時,我心臟漏跳了好幾拍,琢磨著該不會是在她40年前開的那家傳奇店面World’s End (原名為Let It Rock,後曾幾經改名為 “SEX”, “Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die”,以及 “Seditionaries”)旁邊吧?收到邀請函後,仔細一看,這次的秋冬女裝是在倫敦著名的Saatchi Galley,雖然不如預期但也相差不遠,走路大概20分鐘的距離。所以直到看秀之前,心理一直期待著是否Vivienne要透過這系列重新檢視自己這一路走來的設計師之路。
在2013秋冬系列,她將龐克的藝術呈現留給妝容。我們在秀前進入後台,簡直是忙翻了,models、化妝師、髮型師、造型團隊再加上媒體,小小的空間塞滿了近一百人……
化妝指導將sketch book上的概念搬到models臉上後,看起來略帶瘋狂。蒼白如藝妓的底妝,用狂飆的黑色眼線在臉上拉出輪廓,然後用亮色眼影及唇彩粧點,有點像小丑(剛開始還納悶這是在開玩笑嗎),完全跟傳統catwalk定義的美的妝容背道而馳。但轉念一想,薇薇安夫人就愛這般聳動不是嗎?
Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013
當Vivienne Westwood公關在email提到2013秋冬女裝將在King’s Road舉辦時,我心臟漏跳了好幾拍,琢磨著該不會是在她40年前開的那家傳奇店面World’s End (原名為Let It Rock,後曾幾經改名為 “SEX”, “Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die”,以及 “Seditionaries”)旁邊吧?收到邀請函後,仔細一看,這次的秋冬女裝是在倫敦著名的Saatchi Galley,雖然不如預期但也相差不遠,走路大概20分鐘的距離。所以直到看秀之前,心理一直期待著是否Vivienne要透過這系列重新檢視自己這一路走來的設計師之路。
Vivienne Westwood將PUNK帶進時尚大堂的傳奇,我想是大家耳熟能詳也不用再多贅述。許多人想必跟我一樣,都是在國中或高中時期透過矢澤愛那轟動一時的漫畫NANA而開始注意到Vivienne Westwood。那時藉由漫畫裡的理解,便是PUNK=Vivienne Westwood,讓我在國高中時期對英國龐克著迷不已。SEX
PISTOLS、NEW YORK DOLLS是我心目中的偶像,當然穿著打扮更是迷失在所謂的龐克態度(現在重新看以前照片,簡直是臉紅得要命,但誰沒有過去呢~)花了大把打工存來的錢在東區那家CHAOS (只是小小高中生屁孩卻消費到有VIP卡,掩面),跟店長弘森混熟、玩樂團等等,只為了多了解所謂的龐克,進入這個圈子。
但早就在好久以前,Vivienne Westwood的設計就不再局限在龐克風格。既然沒有學習過任何設計衣服相關課程,秉持著 “邊學邊做”的她,在許多季的發表裡,你可以看到她對英式傳統剪裁的研究與努力。馬甲、西裝tailor、襯衫、小禮服…細節翻新與改革的呈現,你可以視為她對傳統的致敬或是嘲諷。
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
回到服裝本身,無政府主義的標語與帶刺的極端龐克造型已不復見,或者你可以說,她明白自己被貼上的龐克教母標籤,而故意反其道而行。立體的垂墜抓皺、Disco風格般閃閃發光的布料、條紋與斑馬紋、披掛造型,這些設計語言你在前幾季的作品裡也可以看到。許多人說Red Label的設計重點重複出現了好幾季,已失去新意。但毋寧視其為Red Label風格一致延伸,在細節處理愈趨成熟。
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
褪去龐克的 “壞”品味,在被視為職場服裝的西裝套裝與洋裝上,仍玩了一些不對稱剪裁、多層次或是幾何領口的小把戲,在專業職場女性的幹練形象裡加了更多的女人味。
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood Red Label A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013
在我們開始看一月份發表的男裝系列之前先讓我炫耀一下一個小插曲。
話說趕完倫敦男裝周後隔兩天便立刻趕去米蘭男裝周看Burberry跟Vivienne Westwood,結果好像老天爺知道這次米蘭行對我有多重要一樣,在搭去米蘭的飛機上遇見Vivienne Westwood本人以及她老公!!!!!在跟她相隔不到一公尺的距離一直偷看她,內心彭湃的要命!然後回程上飛機前,又在boarding gate遇見她,又是同班飛機!!這次我鼓起勇氣跟她說話,太緊張結巴不知道說甚麼,只說了我跟她搭同班飛機來米蘭,又搭同班飛機回倫敦,好巧阿……我知道,我真是蠢斃了,然後我知道這樣很不上道,但我還是跟她要了簽名(百分之百的迷妹阿)…然後就自己fade out…
別以為我是坐甚麼英國航空頭等艙去,我坐的可是EASY JET,最便宜最廉價的歐洲英國來往航空公司喔!還在上面遇到大牌設計師喔(是不是真的可以拿出來說嘴)!這更讓我覺得Vivienne Westwood酷斃了,不像其他大牌設計師講究排場(現在回想起來其實那整班飛機的人似乎都是時尚圈的人,乘客打扮都有夠誇張妖豔@@,也許倫敦時尚圈沒有那麼揮霍?).
好啦回到一月份的男裝系列,一樣帶大家從後台看起,這次走秀的男模清一色都是像這位model一樣,全身塔吐眼神痞痞,看起來壞的不得了~
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Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
男裝的妝容重點也很有趣,除了頭髮要帶有凌亂感,臉部除了底妝外也增加一些像是打完架後的傷痕、嘴角流血,或是用粗黑眼線直接在臉上做塗鴉。
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Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
秋冬的男裝系列我非常喜歡,實穿的西裝外套細節精緻,格紋變化也很豐富。另外有幾套披掛感上衣以及千鳥紋圖案的鋪棉運動裝束,尤其像降落傘搬可一衣多穿的防風外套也很有趣,讓我聯想到之前在St. Paul的抗議示威者,薇薇安老太太又再次成功將街頭風格帶入設計裡。
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Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDBMu897p19ecIupRCJDUbv3ilDWMN5zUo92radV857uadY6c64c5lCT6wrX_xgfCQix6qH8eCikKBZSAlw0kmvs7Q6avnelwNA_bWG2lfpvK-wKU6vW41Rrhh68t7EWiOQAkO_r40iOJ/s640/IMG_0807.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8FXu51Dc4pHvffZfH50orUB9pUaq0BZsKygSwmUo2-T9Kjh7ZjLc_wuCZtsx2JI5n_GA6UuM8YLLTzLUFt4bQwYEb5jacRNifMivsk9tDOmf9af1t9x8MP8QI7kYLvn8oIE_x5yPw2WRI/s640/IMG_0814.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEr2iikKwt0XKUbRJE7GmZ3VpuLAIiOTGLW60i3ko1R4f3yo-yqcUTXMmBb6ph9lLP90I5b_xYze4nPQ59Bt9a1kCFvdLL3O8gdCDrl7pbmb-JN69yco61-3L9DmE3-JGV6T_YdboTsXGx/s640/IMG_0858.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2jhrUoPBnn-8Xn5FwI36Ey_6vbPwLGT3VI8cyE46ShcXh7OPI3jojSaK3ZCjhD05fqOmLvveH6EmUVx_GVmCdc67pDkd6xeBSyZmYI3bYY91R-0pFaITjfmfiwXKyoFSiaYNKAp5lODm7/s640/IMG_0629.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRC0KFGdE2RWsjWxsKSn0il2QSWcD3JKVUP2wv_B7bpdUvVdt6tR73c0Y28c3NSd1cukDq7P5RA3wRMa6hUgq15szF2Cao0qpgnG8LvfYMlGVAzuZfqoyOsxL65qYWf4WAPTMXUBjWcFRp/s640/IMG_0647.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ0nEI0UL9tRZ3kvs95i-Oxy1FBsf9WdeKcLikfYuJ8Z6j1OT8hxF2wu0ASolRzUBtmW9e1hSNzf-saPBlzPBMxIbKJ1sWEa83kbC1JHhz3-F5iYBEDiGzm4Zl_hCfOwM0S3z5_lnfpkCt/s640/IMG_0662.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7SswRReFQ912tsdH1xIufjNVxJJ3NZQkusCwzqHri8GTaTmlvoAGW9V9VnBEsQAdq7P8JtUgcTp4snVHd1UzERqxZEF8mBbh1Jy066VpP2wvskOzPhoabWC3TzBHWfslWoV12_EP1wOZH/s640/IMG_0672.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4akQ1Pon9CZwfS-NypOCvF1SHCERa4s2bq_hoJNzTgZqISiT9pzhgE0Poo0GmUQXZFh5Q4myLBUD0xfY2IyEPjSrKlSVpZTeL23GbMgLfcPvpqmnCLC7J1k9YEh7kGopQl8QFRnV6SONL/s640/IMG_0678.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
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Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTI62B0uvNEAg2vDSzWfq600BCPb6bn5z17xPEyXoyUvyqPhMiWe27UVFhT31QI-aFJL2OD2clqwUNTRKI9tOWgtKsLaErDHfznBEczodGLr68alQQNoJCX7OawXkibWkWarFAzMlFbmIj/s640/IMG_0702.jpg)
Vivienne Westwood MAN A/W 2013, photo credit by Lucas Seidenfaden
後記
我知道一定很多人質疑,Vivienne Westwood的龐克反骨精神是否已不復在?為何接連好幾季設計裡都不見從前龐克時代的跋扈與氣焰?但就我對龐克文化的研究,我必須要說,如果你期待她的龐克精神只從設計風格或是罵罵髒話呈現,那也許你只看到了龐克的表面。畢竟龐克是當時的一種文化,外在穿著只是呈現方式之一。她在1970年代龐克運動高喊無政府主義,將當時被視為不入流的次文化帶入時尚大堂,把 “性”以詼諧的方式融入設計,挑戰中規中矩的優雅主流;自知不像其他設計師為設計學院出身,努力研究傳統英國服飾剪裁,除了應用在設計更加以大膽破壞;到這一次的男裝與女裝發表,皆以時裝之名帶領氣候革命並提出訴求,呼籲大家對人為造成的氣候改變要有所警覺。龐克本是不斷挑戰強權,並對現況提出質疑: “WHY?”
我想,她不需要透過服裝設計去闡述或聲明龐克,因為她本身就是龐克。
好吧我必須承認,由我做Vivienne Westwood的報導也許有失客觀,畢竟我一直視她為傳奇,甚至在我碩士畢業論文裡有好大一部份都是以她為重點做研究(完完全全的迷妹)。只能說,親眼看到她女裝發表,實在是完整了我高中青澀時期的遺憾。
最後,一樣感謝陪我征戰時裝周的攝影師好友Lucas Seidenfaden拍下了這些鏡頭.
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